Sew a "Brusttuch"!
How to sew a late 16th century Brusttuch
Text and pattern: Jannik Prüser, for further information contact @cartagiacos, j.prueser@web.de
Advice and pattern digitalization: Mathew Gnagy
Advice and proof reading: Galen Shila
Many pictorial sources from the 16th and 17th century show fencers wearing apron-like chest cloths (German: “Brusttücher”) during exercise and tournaments. It's possible that these lightweight garments were used to cover the shirt while fencing without a doublet. Duke Moritz owned several Brusttücher — but did he also use them as comfortable fencing clothing?
To test this theory, we made two Brusttücher based on the patterns and techniques observed during the examination of the Brusttücher. The following instructions — based on our own reconstruction process — allow you to pattern, sew and wear your very own Brusttuch based on the Dukes´ extant originals!
Drafting the pattern
To draft the pattern, two measurements of the future wearer are needed: the chest circumference (measured at the broadest part of the chest) and the total height. Proportions of these measurements are then used to determine the shape of the chest cloth pattern.
Drafting starts at point A. From point A, draw a vertical line equal to 1/2 of the wearers' height. Mark the end of this line as point B.
Next, the points C, D, E, and F are marked on the line. The positions of these points are calculated using the chest circumference of the wearer.
The distance from point A to point C equals 1/25 chest.
The distance from point A to point D equals 1/20 chest.
The distance from point A to point E equals 1/6 chest.
The distance from point A to point F equals 1/4 chest.Now, the points G and H are drawn. The positions of these points are calculated using the height of the wearer.
The distance from point A to point G equals 1/4 height.
The distance from point A to point H equals 2/5 height.Now, the points I, J, K, L, M and N are drawn. The positions of these points are calculated using the chest circumference of the wearer.
The distance from point A to point I equal 1/11 chest.
The distance from point C to point J equal 1/5 chest.
The distance from point E to point K equal 21/100 chest.
The distance from point F to point L equals 3/10 chest.
The distance from point G to point M equals 1/4 chest.
The distance from point H to point N equals 7/40 chest.
Now, all points are connected according to the diagram.
In the end, mirror the pattern and add a seam allowance of 1 cm all around.
Materials needed:
Top fabric (satin or velvet)
As length and width of the fabric needed depends on the measurements of the wearer, the width should be at least 6/10 of the chest circumference + 2 cm for seam allowance. The length should equal 1/2 of the wearers' height + 2 cm for seam allowance.
Additional note: The Duke's Brusttücher were made of satin and silk velvet, but it's also possible to use wool, linen or various silk fabrics. It's important that a soft and light fabric is chosen, as the Brusttuch should be comfortable and not too heavy.
Lining fabric (Unbleached linen)
The fabric used should be as wide and long as the top fabric.
Additional note: As the fastening of the Brusttuch is directly attached to the lining, a robust and dense fabric should be selected.
Sewing thread (heavy silk thread, similar to modern buttonhole twist)
The color of the thread should match the color of the top fabric.
Linen tape (Plain weave, width ca. 1 cm)
Loops and straps made of linen tape are used to fasten the Brusttuch behind the wearers back.
Sewing the Brusttuch
Cut the Brusttuch in top fabric and lining.
Turn the seam allowance of the top fabric to the inside. Where the seam allowance is curved, snip into it to help the fabric lay flat. Press the seam allowance with an iron.
Turn the seam allowance of the lining to the inside and press with an iron.
Place both pieces (Brusttuch top fabric and lining) on top of each other, wrong sides facing. Baste or pin in place.
Use fell stitches to sew both layers together at the outer edges. These stitches are supposed to pass through all layers of fabric and are visible on the outside of the Brusttuch.
Attaching loops and straps to the lining
To make the loops, fold two strips of linen tape (ca. 14 cm/ 5 1/2 inches) in half. To prevent the ends from fraying, fold the last 6 mm/ 1/6 inches to the inside.
Place one loop at the left shoulder, next to the neck, and sew in place with whip stitches. Place the other loop right below the left armhole and also sew in place with whip stitches. These stitches should only pass through the lining and should not be visible on the outside of the Brusttuch.
To make the straps, cut two strips of linen tape. They should be long enough to reach from the wearers shoulder across the back to the lowest point of the rib cage, with enough extra length to tie the ends into slip knots later on.
Again, the ends that are going to be sewn to the Brusttuch are folded inwards to avoid fraying.Sew the first strap to the right shoulder, next to the neck, using whip stitches. Sew the other strip right below the right armhole, also using whip stitches.
Pull the end of the strap at the right shoulder through the loop below the left arm and tie it into a slipknot. Repeat the same process with the strap at the right armhole and the loop at the left shoulder.
In the end, both straps should be connected to their corresponding loops and cross behind the wearers back.
By tightening or loosening the slip knots, the wearer can regulate the tightness of the Brusttuch, thus enabling the wearer to get in and out without the help of a servant.
Pattern by Jannik Prüser
Reconstruction of Duke Moritz’ “Brusttuch” originally made of slashed yellow silk (Pattern, reconstruction and foto by Jannik Prüser)
Reconstruction of Duke Moritz’ “Brusttuch” originally made of black velvet (Pattern, reconstruction and foto by Jannik Prüser)
